Because the special price in June was particularly attractive, many people, including us, jumped on the opportunity to purchase the Prime Sea Bass in early July. We were eager to experience the thrill of our first catch. The delivery took roughly two weeks after placing the order, and the shipping timeline matched Amazon's predictions quite closely. On the first day of arrival, the package was delivered right to our doorstep.
The box arrived in perfect condition—no damage to the packaging or the foam, and no visible scars on the subwoofer. However, each screw on the back panel had a bit of a "battlefield" effect, with some paint chipped off (though there were no signs of repeated disassembly or stripped screws).
When setting it up, we encountered an issue with the power cord. It came with a large, U.S.-style double-headed plug, which wouldn't fit into a standard socket. Fortunately, we had another appliance with an 8-pin power cord, and we found a power cable with a nominal cross-sectional area similar to the original Sony Walkman cable that worked perfectly. However, it’s important to note that the copper core's cross-sectional area shouldn’t be too thin to prevent overheating, aging, or even fire hazards. A thicker copper core is less likely to affect performance negatively.
Now, onto the signal line issue. Without an AV amplifier, we needed to convert a 3.5mm stereo plug to a "mother" lotus connector to use with our public lotus wireless transmitter. Initially, we tried a wired connection, but there was no sound, only static when touching the wires slightly. Realizing this wasn’t going to work, we opted for a wireless setup using a 3.5mm round double mother lotus connector instead.
Our wiring looked something like this:
[Insert Image]
The bass effect at the start was incredibly disappointing. Unlike the Edifier S1000 speakers, which deliver decent low-end performance even at lower volumes, the JBL speaker required significantly higher settings to produce noticeable results. At half volume on the JBL, the subwoofer would barely register at one-eighth. The balance between "too little" and "too much" was nearly impossible to achieve.
This led to delays in tuning the system until the following weekend. Tuning a subwoofer isn’t just about adjusting the frequency and volume—it involves understanding how specific frequencies interact with your room’s acoustics. Small rooms often have issues within the 20Hz-100Hz range due to reflections, furniture placement, and other environmental factors. Professionals offer EQ customization services to help optimize the sound in your space, but for most of us, it’s trial and error.
The subwoofer itself is not a magic wand—it doesn’t automatically fix poor acoustics. Even expensive systems require careful calibration. The "cutting" and "boosting" features on the subwoofer are tools, not instant fixes. To get the best performance, you need to identify problematic frequency peaks and address them accordingly. Sometimes this means stuffing socks in corners, padding towels under speakers, or rearranging furniture to block echoes.
Advanced audio setups come with calibration microphones, but I’m not about to spend hours tweaking settings daily. Instead, I relied on my ears as a makeshift microphone. Here’s what I ended up with after running some sweep tests:
[Insert Image]
This graph was generated using sweep software based on my subjective impressions of loudness. It’s not a scientific chart but rather a practical guide to identifying peaks and valleys. The software I used is called Test Tone Generator, and it’s straightforward to download. The interface looks like this:
[Insert Image]
First, I set the frequency to a specific value, in this case, 37.8Hz. Using the “#†and “b†keys, I adjusted the frequency up and down by octaves. A good way to assess bass quality is whether you can clearly hear notes like do-re-mi. This step involves finding the exact locations of peaks and valleys by slowly increasing the frequency.
Next, I performed a 45Hz to 300Hz frequency sweep, cycling through each frequency every three seconds. This allowed me to feel the peaks and valleys in real-time, making adjustments until the sound felt smoother and more natural.
Unlike many DIY subwoofers that claim to reach 20Hz, this model didn’t produce any audible sound below 40Hz. The sound pressure only started rising noticeably around 59Hz, which marked the first point where I felt a "building" effect. As the frequency increased further, the loudness decreased, with 65Hz being a quieter spot but still louder than 45Hz. Around 89Hz, there was another slight "building" peak, but by then, it was already overlapping with the frequency range of the JBL’s 5-inch box, making it less impactful as a standalone subwoofer.
After confirming these initial impressions, I experimented with various materials, pads, and configurations to try to mitigate these peaks. Due to the nature of audio equipment, every component has a resonant frequency, which is unavoidable. Headphones also exhibit this behavior. One solution is to adjust the content of your music and movies to avoid problematic frequencies. My experience is limited, so without knowing the exact source of these peaks (resonance, desk, floor, echo), it’s hard to fine-tune the layout effectively. This is where practice comes in.
Ultimately, I adjusted the JBL volume to full scale and dialed back to the "triple" touch scale. The low-frequency gain was set to 0dB, while the subwoofer’s frequency cutoff was adjusted to "eight out of ten." The reason for this is that the subwoofer distorts slightly when turned up too loud, so I balanced the overall volume across devices and reduced the source volume.
After opening a few scenes in movies and checking the Dolby promo, I found everything to be satisfactory. Similarly, when listening to some popular Grammy-winning tracks, the drums sounded acceptable. Classical music with deep bass presented no issues either.
Finally, I turned off the subwoofer to confirm the speaker’s functionality. It was clear the speaker was working fine.
Knock-off!
[Last Image]
The Easun Power 12V/24V lithium battery applies Automotive Grade A LiFePO4 Cells and a built-in BMS, which offer excellent performance, unbeatable safety, and massive power. More reliable and safer on indoor or outdoor installations and applications. It provides 4000+ cycles at 100% DOD and a 10-year lifetime to meet your indoor power demands and elevate outdoor adventures. These clean and cost-effective lithium batteries can be your best power solutions for their renewability.
Easun Power Technology Corp Limited , https://www.easun-power.com